Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) – Expedition 2026

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Khan Tengri Expedition — Key Information

• Peak: Khan Tengri

• Elevation: 7010 m

• Region: Central Tien Shan

• Country: Kyrgyzstan / Kazakhstan border

• Route: Classic South Inylchek Route (via Semenov Glacier)

• Climbing Style: Alpine expedition with fixed ropes on key sections

• Guiding: No personal guides (independent climbing)

• Experience Required: Previous ascents above 5000 m

• Base Camp: South Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m)

• Highest Camp: Camp 3 (5800 m)

• Expedition Duration: 21 days

• Reserve Days: 3

• Season: July – August

• Access: Helicopter (Karkyra ↔ South Inylchek)

• Accommodation: Hotels in Bishkek, tent camps on the mountain

• Technical Difficulty: High

• Objective Hazards: Icefalls, avalanches, crevasses, severe weather

• Terrain: Glacier, icefall, mixed rock & snow, exposed summit ridge

• Logistics Provider: ClimberCA International Consortium

• Support Included:

  • Helicopter transfers

  • Established camps

  • Fixed ropes on critical sections

  • Radio communication

  • Medical and logistical support

• Price Range: from 1900 USD

• Insurance Required: Minimum 30,000 USD (including helicopter evacuation)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us.
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e-mail: your@climberca.com
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Khan Tengri Expedition 2026 (7010 m) — Guided Logistics, Tien Shan Mountaineering Program

Khan Tengri (7010 m) is one of the most iconic mountains of Central Asia. Rising on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, this striking marble pyramid dominates the Central Tien Shan and is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful peaks in the world. Its distinctive pink limestone summit glows red at sunrise and sunset, a feature that has made Khan Tengri legendary among mountaineers.

Beyond its aesthetics, Khan Tengri is a serious high-altitude alpine objective. Although slightly lower than nearby Pobeda Peak, it is often considered more technically demanding. The mountain presents sustained exposure, complex glaciation, objectively dangerous icefalls, avalanche-prone slopes, and long sections of fixed ropes on mixed terrain. Severe weather, strong winds, and rapid changes in conditions are typical for the region.

This expedition follows the classic route via the South Inylchek and Semenov Glaciers and is designed for experienced, independent mountaineers with previous ascents above 5000 meters. The climb is conducted without personal guides. The organizer provides full logistical support, helicopter access, established camps, fixed ropes on key sections, and radio communication, allowing participants to focus on the climb itself.

Climbers operate within an international expedition environment at Karkyra Camp and South Inylchek Base Camp, both long-established hubs for major ascents in the Tien Shan.

Expedition Program

Day 1 — Bishkek
Arrival, airport meeting, transfer to hotel. Accommodation and rest.

Day 2 — Bishkek → Karkyra Camp
Ground transfer to Karkyra Camp (approx. 460 km, 7–8 hours). Scenic drive along Issyk-Kul Lake. Camp accommodation, dinner, and preparation for helicopter flight.

Day 3 — Karkyra → South Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m)
Helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp. Camp setup and initial acclimatization.

Day 4 — Acclimatization and Equipment Check
Acclimatization hike in the glacier zone. Rest and thorough inspection of high-altitude and technical equipment.

Day 5 — Base Camp → Camp 1 (4200 m)
Camp 1 is located on the right moraine at the confluence of South Inylchek Lake and the Semenov Glacier, below the slopes of Chapaev Peak.
The approach along the Semenov Glacier is objectively dangerous due to potential avalanches from Khan Tengri and Chapaev Peak. This section should be passed early in the morning and without prolonged stops.

Day 6 — Camp 1 → Camp 2 (5300 m)
Ascent through the Semenov Glacier icefall and exit into the upper cirque. Camp 2 is established at 5300 m. Overnight in tents.

Day 7 — Camp 2 → Camp 3 (5800 m)
Gradual ascent toward the saddle between Khan Tengri and the shoulder of Chapaev Peak. Camp 3 is located on the left side of the saddle at 5800 m. Overnight in tents.

Day 8 — Descent to Base Camp
Return to South Inylchek Base Camp for rest and recovery.

Day 9 — Rest Day
Full rest day with meals at Base Camp.

Day 10 — Summit Push Preparation
Equipment check, packing, weather assessment, and preparation for the final ascent.

Day 11 — Base Camp → Camp 1
Re-ascent along the established route.

Day 12 — Camp 1 → Camp 2
Overnight at Camp 2.

Day 13 — Camp 2 → Camp 3
Ascent through snow and mixed rocky terrain. Overnight at Camp 3.

Day 14 — Summit Day: Khan Tengri (7010 m) → Camp 3
Early morning departure. From Camp 3 the route crosses the saddle and follows the West Ridge of Khan Tengri, equipped with fixed ropes.
The climb is predominantly rocky up to approximately 6900 m, followed by a snow dome that narrows into an exposed summit ridge leading to the top.
Descent back to Camp 3. The descent requires full concentration and should not be underestimated.

Day 15 — Descent to Base Camp
Return to South Inylchek Base Camp.

Days 16–18 — Reserve Days
Additional days reserved for weather delays or tactical adjustments.

Day 19 — Base Camp → Karkyra → Bishkek
Helicopter flight to Karkyra. Ground transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

Day 20 — Bishkek
Free day for rest or sightseeing.

Day 21 — Departure
Transfer to Manas International Airport.

Packages and Pricing (per person)

Economy Package — 1900 USD
Includes helicopter flights to and from South or North Inylchek Base Camp (cargo up to 30 kg), ground transfers Bishkek–Karkyra–Bishkek, medical consultations, environmental fees, long-range radio communication, use of fixed ropes, radios for climbing groups (3+ participants), border zone permit, and Kyrgyzstan registration if required.

Basic Package — 3100 USD
Includes airport meet-and-greet, all local transfers, helicopter flights with cargo up to 40 kg, two hotel nights in Bishkek with breakfast, meals during transfers, full board accommodation at Karkyra Camp and Inylchek Base Camp, access to hot showers and sauna at Base Camp, first aid and medical support, environmental fees, use of fixed ropes and radios, border zone permit, and Kyrgyzstan registration if required.

Not Included

International flights, visa processing, insurance, climbing permit, guide or porter services, equipment rental, personal expenses, and meals or drinks not specified in the program.

Helicopter Schedule 2026

July: 7, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27
August: 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 19, 22, 23, 24

Required Equipment

Participants must be fully equipped with standard high-altitude and technical mountaineering gear, including double boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, carabiners, ascenders, helmet, down clothing, waterproof layers, sleeping system, glacier travel equipment, and personal high-altitude supplies. A detailed equipment list is provided separately.

Insurance Requirements

Each participant must carry an insurance policy with a minimum coverage of 30,000 USD, including helicopter evacuation of at least 20,000 USD.
The policy must specify ALPINISM as the activity and list Kyrgyzstan as the country of stay.
Insurance assistance operated by GLOBAL VOYAGER is not accepted. Participants are responsible for verifying that their insurance policy fully meets these requirements.