German English Русский

Communism & E. Korjenevskoy peaks

Communism - E. Korjenevskoy peaks region (map).

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area - Mt. Communism (7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortambek glacier points northward, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August 20.
 
Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism (7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatization as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.

 

Peak Communism (7495 m).
Mt. Communism is an awe-inspiring rock and ice pyramid with a quadrangular base that has four distinct faces. The eastern one was climbed for the first time by Evgenii Abalakov in 1933 via a difficult route with a very complicated access, along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) glacier On the western face is the classic route, Burevestnik, which runs along the ridge. The third face plunges down to the south for 2,000 meters on the Beliaeva glacier; it is quite steep characterized by the so called Puso (Paunch) a rock wall from 600 to 800 meters high with an incline of more than 80°. Here are the most difficult of 25 routes up Mt. Communism. The South-Western face was first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy, who kept to the right of the Puso. The true "Paunch" route was climbed only in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later, other routes were opened by K. Valiev and V, Solonnikov. The face looking over the "Springboard" glacier has not been climbed yet. It is considered impossible to conquer because of the extremely dangerous icefall that descends onto the Pamirskoe plateau. The normal route up Mt. Communism, on the northern face, crosses the Pamirskoe plateau. This is one of the highest and largest plateaus in the world: about three km wide and twelve km long from west to east. The lowest point is at 4,700 meters altitude, the highest 6,300 m. At 6,000 m there is a little rocky peak called Parachutistov (Parachuters) in honour of the tragic expedition of Soviet military parachuters that was organized in 1967 for training and sporting purposes; many parachuters were killed when the strong wind caused them to crash against the rock, while the others managed to save their lives by opening their parachutes after they had passed over the wind belt.

 

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak


The Barodkin Route up Mt. Communism (7,495 m, 5A) - from North side. Classical routes

The normal route up Mt. Communism begins from the Waltera glacier on to the northern face of the massif. It was opened in 1968 by J. Barodkin along the ridge that bears his name. On a technical level it is not too difficult; it can be compared to the routes up Lenin Peak. Yet it is rated 5 A because of the high altitude. After acclimatization that includes a climb to the snow-covered Pamirskoe plateau and back, the route to the top takes about a week. From the Moskvina base camp climbers go up towards the south along the Waltera glacier, which they cross in a westerly direction after about a one-hour walk. Continue climb along the steep and rubbly ridge up to camp I, at 5,300 m, above the summit of the large rock triangle. In most cases this triangle is climbed over to the left, along the inclined ledge and the snow gully. This is the easiest way, but it is risky because it goes under the glacier icefall. From camp I the itinerary follows the rock ridge, which is often encrusted with ice, up to two snow domes called Grudi (Breasts, 6,200 m). In high season there are clear tracks of this part of the route, and in the more complicated sections a permanent rope is set up. From here you have a level walk to camp 2 (6,200 m), which is in the Pamirskoe plateau. The third day you tackle the long crossing of the plateau, at the end of which you will find camp 3 by going up a snow ridge (6,400 m). The ascent continues along the ridge, up to the western shoulder of the summit, called Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak (6,956 m). Camp 4 is in a snow-covered col at 6,900 m. The route continues to the left over the snow under the summit rocks, up to the col. This is the most difficult part of the climb, because of the steepness and altitude. You reach the top by climbing up the final 300 meters along the northern ridge. You can descend to camp 4, or even camp 3, on the same day. The record for the fastest climb up Mt. Communism was set in 1990 by V. Obikhod and E. Klinezkiy, who took about 20 hours, without bivouacking, to get over the 3,300 meters difference in height, reach the summit and then go back to the base camp. The climber from Yugoslavia A. Stremeiy, who opened the Yugoslavs' Route up Mt. Everest, holds another record: in 1983 he skied down Mt. Communism along the Barodkin route.
 

The Route up Mt. Korzhenevskoy (7,105 m, 5A)

(In the foto to the right) peak Korjenevskoy, seen from Pamirskoe plateau.
Originally called Kul-Santalak, the third peak in the Pamirs over 7,000 meters high was "discovered" in 1910 by a Russian geographer, N. Korzhenevskiy, who wanted to name it after his wife Evgenia. It was climbed for the first time in 1953 by A, Agarov, who went up the northern side. The peak has many complicated routes on its western face. The route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966) is not too difficult and can easily be climbed in three or four days after a suitable acclimatization period. From the Moskvina base camp, follow the path along the torrent that descends from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain, and then continue to the right and cross the Moskvina glacier. Continue along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less steep; here, at about 3,200 meters, you can set up camp 1. Proceed along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of the mountain. The glacier is steep, so that rope, crampons, ice axes and ice screws are necessary. Then the incline again becomes less steep and the route approaches the moraine; here, at 3,300 m, is another good place to set up camp 1. It is more comfortable, with a splendid view that also takes in the entire route. You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very steep; at the beginning of the season the glacier is covered with snow, but at the end deep crevasses open up. Then the face becomes steep, leading to a triangle of rocks where you can set up camp 2 (3,800 m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging roof. The route continues to the right, up to the little col, with a 1,000 meter crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100 m). You can pitch camp 2 here as well, but there is space only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to the top. There is no need for crampons here, as the snow is usually soft and ski poles should suffice. Camp 3, where you will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either at 6,400 or 6,700 meters. The descent takes 24 hours. The view of Mt. Communism is fantastic.  



Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak

 

 

Prices in 2017 (per person)
 
Self guided
one or two peaks
Guided (3 pax.)
Guided for one peak
(3 pax.)
Complete package
2500 U$
4400 U$
3740 U$
Economic package
1500 U$
3400 U$
2840 U$




Helicopter flights schedule 2017

Djirgital-BC-Djirgital

15.07

12.08

Reserve day

16.07

13.08

 

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2017. Economic package.

 

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak


Price - 1500 U$/pax (economic package)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 - telegram
e-mail -  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2017:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin's glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.

Price of economic package includes:
- Registration
- Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
- Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
- Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to BC and back (Personal cargo 20 kg max. An overload – 4,5U$/kilo)
- Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
- Use of an infrastructure of BC (a place for tents, water (not boiled), a toilet, an electricity, a first-aid post, a left-luggage office)


Price of economic package does not include:
- Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC - 10U$ / 8U$ / day / pax
- Breakfast - 20U$
- Dinner - 25U$
- Supper - 25U$
- Shower - 10U$ / visit
- Sauna- 20U$ / visit
- Gas bottle (230 mg) new - 9U$ / item
- The Internet - 15$/hour
- Bar - under price-list
- Rent of high-altitude tent - 7U$ / day
- Rent of mobile portable radio set - 5U$ / day

- The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

- Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium. For further information and booking please e-mail us This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.






 

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2017. Complete package.

 

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak


Price - 2500 U$/pax (complete package)


Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 - telegram
e-mail -  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2017:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin's glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.


Price of complete package includes:

- Registration
- Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
- Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
- Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 30 kg max. An overload – 4,5 U$ / kilo).
- Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
- Full board in BC
- Accommodation in tents at BC
- Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
- Left-luggage office in BC
- Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
- Gas bottle (230 mg) new - 9U$ / item
- The Internet - 15$/hour with 10% discount
- Bar - under price-list with 10% discount
- Rent of high-altitude tent - 7U$ / day
- Rent of mobile portable radio set - 5U$ / day

- The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

- Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

For further information and to booking please contact us via
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.



Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak


Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium. For further information and booking please e-mail us
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.





Source:
http://mountains.tos.ru/commun.htm

WADU 01. Adventures in Uzbekistan   WADU 01. Adventures in Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan, 15 days tour. Itinerary: Tashkent – Nukus – Muynak – Khiva – Bukhara – Nurata – Yurt camp – Sentyab village – Samarkand – Tashkent – Chimgan – Charvak – Tashkent. Best time: April, May, June, July, August, September, October   More >>

Incentive tours to Uzbekistan   Incentive tours to Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is a country with an ancient history and the culture having more than 25 centuries, with legendary fantastic Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva cities. Tashkent is the capital of the country. Here are high minarets, majestic madrassahs, mosques, palaces, mausoleums decorated by unique ornaments and mosaic.   More >>

WCUZ 01. Classic Uzbekistan   WCUZ 01. Classic Uzbekistan
Our coach tour will immerse you deeply in the history of most ancient towns of the world - Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. Itinerary: Tashkent – Samarkand – Bukhara – Khiva – Tashkent. All season.

price: 680 USD

  More >>

Country Hotels Uzbekistan   Country Hotels Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan Recreation, Resorts Uzbekistan. Mountain resorts of Uzbekistan, Hotels. Information. Booking. Resorts Tashkent hotels   More >>

WCUZ 03. Uzbekistan - Oriental Fairy Tale   WCUZ 03. Uzbekistan - Oriental Fairy Tale
Unusually combined tour will get you know the ancient cities of Uzbekistan - Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and its nature. You will ride along the picturesque canyon in Aktau mountains. Majestic desert ship - a camel will get you to the lost village in Kyzyl-Kum sands. There you will meet the local people who still keep the traditions and ancient style of life. You will visit rocky art gallery of primitive men in Sarmysh gorge, a huge Aidarkul lake in the middle of a desert, Chimgan mountain ski resort in Tien-Shan mountains.

price: 630 USD

  More >>

WCUZ 02. All Uzbekistan   WCUZ 02. All Uzbekistan
Interesting historical-cognitive tour will familiarize you with the most interesting please of Uzbekistan: from the ancient lands of Khorezm and Karakalpakstan in the north-west up to Fergana Valley and Pamiro-Alay Mountain Massif in the east, from Tien-Shan in the north up to the ancient Termez on Amudarya River in the south.

price: 1700 USD

  More >>

WCUT 01. From Kyzylkum Desert up to Tien-Shan Mountains   WCUT 01. From Kyzylkum Desert up to Tien-Shan Mountains
Unforgettable, full of contrasts tours carries out along the territory of two Central Asian republics: Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Majestic minarets, blue domes of mausoleums, ancient Medrese and impressing caravan-saraies “will tell” you about bygone power and wealth of Uzbekistan. You even won’t notice smooth change from city civilization to magnificent mountain landscapes, untouched nature of Kyrgyzstan, its “pearl” – Issyk-Kul Lake, traditional life of shepherds on the high-mountain Son-Kul Lake. The impressions from everything you have seen are remained in your memory for a long time.   More >>

WCUT 02. To UNESCO World Heritage in Central Asia   WCUT 02. To UNESCO World Heritage in Central Asia
Historical and cultural tour of the two most interesting Central Asian republics will acquint visitors with divers culture and monuments of ancient civilizations: Margiana, Parphia, Sogdiana and Khorezm. In 2 weeks you will visit 8 (!) objects of UNESCO World Heritage in Samarqand, Shakhrisabz, Buchara, Khiva, Merv, Margush, Kunya-Urgench and Old Nisa.   More >>

WCUT 03. Along Alexander Macedonskiy Road   WCUT 03. Along Alexander Macedonskiy Road
An excursion-historical tour passes along the territory of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. It repeats the part of the way of Alexander’s Asian campaign. The tour is assigned for those who love history, ethnography and oriental exotic. Duration: 15 days Season: June, July, August.   More >>

WUTK 01. Pamir – The Roof of the World   WUTK 01. Pamir – The Roof of the World
Unique tour along Pamir Highway introduces you to one of the forbidden places of our planet. There are only two places in the world (Tibet and Andes) where car roads are laid through the mountains on above 4 000 m height. You will be able to see the high Pamir Mountains, rivers and lakes, famous Vakhan Valley, ruins of ancient fortresses Kaakhka, Yamchun, Ratm, take a bath in curative thermal springs, meet with local people – pamiris, which preserved their cultural and centuries-old traditions.   More >>

WEFU 01. Mountain flowers in Uzbekistan   WEFU 01. Mountain flowers in Uzbekistan
It is an interesting tour for lovers of nature and light hiking, it runs in spring (the end of March – May), when thousand kinds of plants and flowers start to blossom. During one week trip, you will not only walk and enjoy nature in South-West Tien Shan mountains and Pamir-Alay ridges, but also visit legendary Samarkand, with its worldwide famous monuments - objects of UNESCO World Heritage.   More >>

WCRU 01. On Baktrian camel through Kyzyl-Kum desert   WCRU 01. On Baktrian camel through Kyzyl-Kum desert
The trek goes through the center of the Kyzyl-Kum ("Red Sand") desert. During the tour many discoveries and interesting meetings are waiting for our participants every day. Season: April, May, June, July, August, September, October.   More >>

WHKU 02. To the source of Paltau-say   WHKU 02. To the source of Paltau-say
Paltau tour passes through Chatcal nature reserve, which located in the spurs of Western Tien-Shan mountains. From ancient times Paltau-say is famous by ore with rich content of metal. There are still some remains of smelting furnace, dated by the Middle Ages.

price: 70 USD

  More >>

WJUZ 01. On Jeeps to Aral Sea through Kizil-kums   WJUZ 01. On Jeeps to Aral Sea through Kizil-kums
The fascinating tour on 4WD vehicles passes through the Kyzyl-Kum - one of the greatest deserts of Asia . You will get the Aral sea shore after having passed hundreds kilometers in sands. Now one can still see the remains of beached boats, amazing Aral motley rocky shores and mysterious Usturt plateau. There will also be the opportunity to take pleasure of observing the world famous monuments of Samarkand and Bukhara.   More >>

Tour to Fergana Valley   Tour to Fergana Valley
The tour can be organized in your own dates / any number of pax, cost & conditions are available upon request. The best time for this tour: March, April, May, June, July, August   More >>

Fergana valley - Garden of Uzbekistan   Fergana valley - Garden of Uzbekistan
Travel in the Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. Tour package consists of a combination of historical and architectural components. Itinerary: Tashkent-Dangara-Kokand-Rishtan-Fergana-Margilan-Aksikent-Chust-Fergana-Tashkent. Duration: 3 days/2 nights   More >>

WCRU 01. On Baktrian camel through Kyzyl-Kum desert   WCRU 01. On Baktrian camel through Kyzyl-Kum desert
The trek goes through the center of the Kyzyl-Kum ("Red Sand") desert. During the tour many discoveries and interesting meetings are waiting for our participants every day. Season: April, May, June, July, August, September, October.   More >>

Uzbekistan Hotels in Tashkent Samarkand Bukhara Khiva   Uzbekistan Hotels in Tashkent Samarkand Bukhara Khiva
Uzbekistan hotels. Hotels in Tashkent Samarkand Bukhara Khiva. Information. Booking   More >>

Bukhara Hotels   Bukhara Hotels
Bukhara hotels. Hotels in Bukhara. Information. Booking   More >>

Samarkand Hotels   Samarkand Hotels
Samarkand hotels. Hotels in Samarkand. Information. Booking   More >>

Khiva Hotels   Khiva Hotels
Khiva hotels. Hotels in Khiva. Information. Booking   More >>

Tashkent Hotels   Tashkent Hotels
Tashkent hotels Information Booking   More >>