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Pobeda Peak Expedition 2017

 

Key Information

Tour Duration: 27 day(s)
Group Size: 1 - 10 people
Destination: Kyrgyzstan
Coordinates: 42°02′06″N 80°07′32″E
Specialty Categories: Mountain Climbing/Ascending Mountain Peaks
Season: July - August
International Airfare Included: No
Helicopter Flight to BC and back: Yes
Personal Travel Insurance Included: No
Personal Equipment Included: No
Tour Customizable: Yes
Price Per Person: Full package for 2017 is 1900 USD Self Guided
Mountain Guides Availability: Yes
Mountain Guide Service: 1 guide for 1 pax – 2250 USD; 1 guide for 2 pax – 2600 USD; 1 guide for 3 pax – 3000 USD.
The Recommended Guide:Climber Ratio: 1:3
Supplier: tel. +998 98 3039846; E-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

More info in Russian
 
Note:

- Climbing to 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground.
- Your insurance should permit you to work on a height above 4200 m.

Note:
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 2 July and 27 August 2017.


Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

Pobeda Mountain PeakPeak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it's got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning "Victory peak".

It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth". Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.


Route description

The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.

Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.


Basic program - 27 days.


Note: Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 2 July and 27 August 2017.
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel. 
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek- Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp. 
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “ South Inylchek ” (4000m). 
Day 4.  Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. 
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. Pobeda Peak
Day 6. Climb to the camp № 1. 4600m 
Day 7. Climb to the camp № 2. 5300m 
Day 8. Climb to the camp № 3. 5700m 
Day 9. Climb to the camp № 4 6400 m 
Day 10. Descent to the camp № 1.4600 m 
Day 11. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 12. Rest day. 
Day 13. Climb to the camp № 1. 
Day 14. Climb to the camp № 2. 
Day 15. Climb to the camp № 3. 
Day 16. Climb to the camp № 4. 
Day 17. Climb to the camp № 5. 6900 m 
Day 18. Climb to the camp № 6. 7100 m. 
Day 19. Ascent of summit and descent to the camp № 5 
Day 20. Descent to the camp № 3. 
Day 21. Descent to the camp № 1. 
Day 22. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 23. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 24. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 26. Free day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 27. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Note: Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.


Cost of a full package in 2017 is 1900 USD per person.


Full package includes:
* meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
* transfer airport in Bishkek- hotel - airport in Bishkek;
* transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
* helicopter flight to BC and back;
* unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
* accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total)
* accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC "South Inylchek";
* free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC "South Inylchek";
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);


Cost of a small package in 2017 is 1200 USD per person.

Small package includes:
*
helicopter flight to BC and back (it's permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 4 USD /kg);
* free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC "South Inylchek";
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost of both packages does not include:
* The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
* International flight;
* All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
* Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
* All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
* The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
* The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 guide for 1 pax – 2250 USD;
1 guide for 2 pax – 2600 USD;
1 guide for 3 pax – 3000 USD

Additional services:
Rent of tents for high camps - 80 USD per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) - 9 USD per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone - 4 USD/min

 

List of items, which will be of a use:
     1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
     2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
     3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
     4) High-altitude food


Schedule of helicopter flights in 2017:

July 2, 7, 9, 14 ,16, 21, 23, 28, 30, 31
August 3, 4, 6, 7, 11, 13, 16, 18, 20, 23, 24, 25, 27
   


Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium. For further information and booking please e-mail us This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 








Mountain Safety

Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is world's ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand meters high ("seventhousander"). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of "Treacherous Corner". Even in the summer time, as a bolt from the blue, a snow storm may burst out here - with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility - and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop.

In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for mountaineer to do here in the winter time. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.

Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case.

Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too. Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area - either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity. Still such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.


As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.


Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Pobeda
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html

Picture appreciation:
http://niosa-data1.narod.ru/TienShan_07/img/img_0272.htm



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