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Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) - Expedition 2017

Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m)

This information in Russian

Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition - Special offer & fixed dates 2017

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program by the price: 2800 USD/person

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational ConsortiumAbout Us
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Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 2nd of July and 27th of August in 2017.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Mountains of Heaven'.

Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40 degees, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Khan Tengri routes

Basic program - 21 days
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2 Drive Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 3 Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6 Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 7 Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 8 Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 9 Descend to BC
Day 10 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12 Camp 1.
Day 13 Camp 3.
Day 14 Camp 4. 6400m.
Day 15 Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 16 Descend to BC
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 19 Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to Airport

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2017:

July 2, 7, 9, 14 ,16, 21, 23, 28, 30, 31   
August 3, 4, 6, 7, 11, 13, 16, 18, 20, 23, 24, 25, 27 


Cost of a full package in 2017 is 1900 USD per person.

Full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
  • transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek;
  • transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
  • accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);


Cost of a small package in 2017 is 1200 USD per person.

Small package includes:

  • helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
  • International flight;
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Additional services at Base Camp:

Guide services:
1 person – 1600 USD
2 person – 1800 USD
3 person – 2100 USD

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min

List of items, which will be of a use:
Backpack - 85 liters,
Sleeping bag -1,
Sleeping pad – 1,
Harness – 1,
Carbines - 4,
Jumar – 1,
Crampons– 1,
Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m,
Ice axe – 1,
Sun glasses – 1 or 2,
Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries,
Ice screw -2,
Folding knife – 1,
Down jacket/parka -1,
Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit,
Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1,
Thermal underwear – 1 suit,
Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants),
Polartec gloves -1,
Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1,
Warm hat -1,
Balaclava -1,
Warm socks -2 pairs,
Socks,
Gamashi,
Sun protection crèam,
Figure-8 descender - 1,
Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1,
Avalanche shovel –1,
High altitude boots - 1,
Trekking boots -1.

List of the high altitude food set:

1. Quick cooked porridge porridge in pack "Bistrof" 15 bags, 40 gr
2. Groats rolled oats; semolina; musli 1000 gr
3. Meat fat; smoked fat; smoked sausage, meat cuts, sausage product 1500 gr
4. Cheese product cheese, melted cheese 1500 gr
5. Dried fruits dried apricots; raisins; prunes; dates; peanuts; walnut 1500 gr
6. Chocolate snikers; mars; chocolate in bars 10 bars, 60 gr
7. Sweet chocolate candles; honey; halva; jem,biscuits in assortiment 2000 gr
8. Garnish quick cooked: noodle ; rice; buckwheat 1000 gr
9. Canned food canned stewed meat; fish; condensed sweet milk 5 cans
10. Sublimated soup in assortment 10 bags, 60 gr
11. Hot drinks Tea; coffee; cacao; sugar; dry milk 70 packs
12. Cold drinks instant drinks in assortment 10 packs
13. Bakery product crackers; bread; biscuits 1500 gr
14. Others solt; mustard; lemons; ketchup; polyethylene bag; toilet paper;candles ; wipes; if needed


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