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K2 expeditions 2010. K2 mountaineering

Karakoram in Turkish means "Black Rubble". In 1856 Capt. Montgomerie surveyed a number of peaks in the Baltoro region of the Karakoram from a distance of about 200km. He noted a cluster of high peaks and named them K1, K2, K3 and soon with the prefix "K" for Karakoram.

In 1861 the area was further surveyed by Col. Godwin Austin and recognised K2 as the highest and measured it to be 8619m only three meters more than its official height (1988) of 8616m. Its local name is Chogori, which means Great Mountain.

Thus, K2, the second highest mountain in the world towers majestically above Concordia with the sweeping Godwin Austin Glacier offering an ice highway towards it. It was first climbed by Italians. The route to K2 goes through the Baltoro region of Baltistan. There are several high peaks, which are situated, in the world's largest temperate zone glacier. Only the highest or more prominent ones have been named or climbed. An incredible nineteen of these peaks tower over 7600m while four of them are 8000ers.

K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains

TRIP ITINERARY:

Day 01 Islamabad
Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel for overnight.

Day 02 Islamabad
Welcome reception (briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel

Day 03 Skardu / Chilas
a) Fly to Skardu PK-451 (09:30 - 10:30). (Flight is subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight.
b) In case of cancellation of flight (13-14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel

Day 04 Chilas / Skardu
a) Day free at Skardu
b) If you are driving, complete road journey (07-08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River. Overnight at hotel

Day 05 Skardu
Final preparation day at Skardu. Overnight at hotel.

Day 06 Askole: (3000m)
By jeeps drive to Askole (8-9 hrs). The last village of about 50 houses. The villagers grow their own cereals, vegetable and fruit and own large herds of sheep's, goats, yaks and dzos. Overnight in tent

Day 07 Jhola: (3200m)
Start 2-3 hours, walk across wasteland and traverse Biafo Glacier, a tortured Ocean of moving boulders and crevasses 2 km wide. Cross the glacier and after a lunch break continue to Jhola (4-5 hrs). Cross-Dumardo River Bridge and camp at rather dusty campsite surrounded by a few bushes with a side stream. Overnight in tent

Day 08 Paiyu: (3600m)
Start on a relatively easy trail for 3-4 hrs. Crossing Bardumal campsites along a 2-km stretch of sandy River beach. After a lunch break continue towards Paiyu for another 2-3 hrs. trail climbs to a Vantage Point providing view of the Snout of Baltoro. And in the far distance a magnificent Panorama of Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 to the left for the first time. Paiyu is a crowded campsite. Overnight in tent.

Day 09 Paiyu: (3600m)
Traditional rest day at Paiyu. Overnight at tent.

Day 10 Urdukas: (4200m)
Start for a 7-8 hrs. Gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. After about two hours the path divides at the snout of Baltoro glacier where the left branch goes to the BC of Tango Tower and the Sarpo Lago pass. Continue to the right climbing up on to the glacier that stretches up the valley 62 km long and 2 km wide. Further 2-3 hours steady climb on a long diagonal to the other side. 3 hours walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. Urdukas is a spectacular campsite. However like Paiyu this site is over used and polluted. Overnight at tent.

Day 11 Goro II: (4500m)
6-8 hours walk on the glacier. The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue for 2-3 hours to Goro-I opposite of Yermanendo Glacier falling down from the Mashebrum pass. For the next 3-4 hrs continue east up the Baltoro glacier. Following telephone wire from army HQ Goro to Gasherbrum IV. Goro-II campsite is pitched on the rough stones and ice in the center of the glacier with water from the glacier melt. Overnight at tent.

Day 12 Concordia (4700m) / K2 Base Camp (5100m)
6-8 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Muztagh Tower, Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K-2. Camp at Concordia named by Martin Conway after the place De La Concordia in Paris. Lunch at Concordia. You will be meeting some crevasses near Godwin Austin glacier. Overnight at tent.

Day 13-57 45 days for acclimatization and climbing K2.

Day 58 Trek back to Gore II (9-10 hrs) Overnight in tent.

Day 59 Trek to Khuburtze (8-9 hrs) Overnight in tent.

Day 60 Trek to Paiyu (5-6 hrs). Overnight in tent.

Day 61 Trek to Johla (7-8 hrs) Overnight in tent.

Day 62 Trek to Askole. (7-8 hrs) Overnight in tent.

Day 63 By jeep drives to Skardu. Overnight at hotel

Day 64 Islamabad / Chilas
a) Fly to Islamabad PK-452 (11:20 - 12:20). (Subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel.
b) In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.

Day 65 Islamabad
a) Leisure day at Islamabad
b) In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.

Day 66 Islamabad
Farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Transfer to airport for your return flight home.


ClimberCA Guides / Climbing Partners Program


Ilyas TuhvatullinThe ClimberCA Mountain Guides team, working under the direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin, who 30.05.2004 reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face; 22.08.2007 reached the summit of K2 (Chogori) along the center of the Western face – abrupt rocky bastion etc ...

Significant discount under the ClimberCA sponsorship is available if you support our Climbing Partners Program at your expense.

Interested? Then contact us for more information ... your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru

Our quotation for above itinerary
 

!!! Our rates as you shall see below are valid only if you support our Climber Partner program. Otherwise, please refer to this page: Pakistan Mountaineering

10 pax @ US$  3745 per person on twin sharing basis at hotels and single tent at BC.
07 pax @ US$  3930 per person on twin sharing basis at hotels and single tent at BC.
05 pax @ US$  4150 per person on twin sharing basis at hotels and single tent at BC.
Single supplement @ US$  215 per single room.
US$  50 per person/day for additional days food at BC.
US$  110 per porter (one way) for baggage in excess of quoted weight.

K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains

SERVICES INCLUDED:
» Liaison with ministry of tourism in Islamabad for permit process and measurement of Liaison officer.
» Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.
» Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.
» Assistance upon arrival/departure.
» Welcome reception (briefing)/farewell meeting (debriefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
» Hotel accommodation at Guest house (Islamabad), Panorama Hotel (Chilas) and Concordia Motel (Skardu) with three fixed meals.
» All meals during trek and 45 days at BC
» Porterage of 75kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the BC and 50kg per person on return from BC.
» Road transfers between airport/hotel and within city as per itinerary.
» Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, kitchen tent and toilet tent with tables/chairs and camping ground fees.
» Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
» Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s).
» Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
» Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.
» Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond for USD 1000.
» Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges.
» Reconfirmation of air tickets.
» Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (wages and kit to be arranged by the team).
» Above quotation is based on present porter rates and subject to revise.

K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains

NOT INCLUDED:
» International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.
» Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to the kick off point.
» Liaison Officer kit and equipment, allowances, travel, hotels, meals and insurance and his personal expenses of any kind.
» High altitude porters/any crew above BC.
» High altitude tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen.
» Medications ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
» Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.
» Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions.
» Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid by the Government of Pakistan.
» Clearing agent charges.
» Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet.

Royalty fee for K2 is US$ 6000 (50% concession) for a party of 1-7 persons and US$ 1000 (50% concession) for each additional member.

The L.O. is paid a daily allowance of US$ 30 in Rawalpindi/ Islamabad and US$ 15 in the mountains for his food in addition to his accommodation and kit. In lieu thereof US$ 1500 will be paid to the LO as kit allowance.

ISB/KDU or V.V. airfare is US$ 120 per person one way for economy class. Airfare is subject to change without advance notice by the airline. In case of cancellation of flight, we will be pleased to provide surface transfer in an exclusive coach in the same cost of airfare.

K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains

REFUND:
» If the cancellation is made 15 days + prior to departure full payment will be refunded and a nominal communication service charge will be deducted.
» We reserve the right to deduct:
» 25% cancellation charge from paid package price if the cancellation is made in less than 15 days of arrival date.
» 40% in case of cancellation in less than 7 days.
» In case of cancellation prior to arrival, all charges in respect of confirmed bookings that entail no-show charges by hotels/transport/airline will have to be paid by the clients.
» Anyone deciding to abandon the trip after arrival or leave during the trip for whatever reason(s) whether the clients own or external (of the nature of force majeure) will not be eligible for a refund. This also applies in case the entire group completes/abandons the trip and decides to return earlier than the agreed time schedule.
» Nominal communication service charge will also be deducted from the refund.


HELICOPTER RESCUE DEPOSIT:
» Rescue by helicopter is now handled by a senior-government organization which requires an advance deposit of US$ 6000 by the expedition before leaving for the mountains or, in its place, a letter of guarantee from the concerned Embassy on behalf of the expedition. The deposit is refundable after deduction of US$ 200 as service charges to the party at the end of the expedition if need for rescue/evacuation has not arisen.

K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains K2 Pakistan Expedition. K2 Peak, K2 Mountains


 

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