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Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition
Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition, Ismoil Somoni Peak
Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2013 (32 days) Economic package.
Price - 1300 €/pax (economic package) Author: ClimberCA - International Mountaineering agency - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Phone: +99898 3039846 Itinerary 2013: Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive). Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin's glade). Day 4-30 Acclimatization and climbing. Day 31 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe Day 32 Departure from Dushanbe. Price of economic package includes:
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Price - 2200 €/pax (complete package)
Author: ClimberCA - International Mountaineering agency - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Phone: +99898 3039846
Itinerary 2013:
Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin's glade).
Day 4-30 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 31 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 32 Departure from Dushanbe.
Price of complete package includes:
- Registration
- Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
- Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
- Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 50 kg max. An overload – 4,5 € / kilo).
- Accommodation in hotel 2* (2 nights)
- Full board in BC
- Accommodation in tents at BC
- Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
- Left-luggage office in BC
- Medical aid
Price of complete package does not include:
- Gas bottle (230 mg) new - 8€ / item
- Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) - 3€ / item
- Satellite phone - under price-list
- The Internet - under price-list
- Bar - under price-list
- Rent of high-altitude tent - 7€ / day
- Rent of mobile portable radio set - 5€ / day
- The mountain guide service – 1900 € / one pax / program / 3 pax. group
- Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg
Cost of complete package also doesn't include:
Visa support - 24 euro/pax;
Tajik visa - 48 euro/pax;
For further information and to booking please contact us via
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Your guides
We recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium, made under direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin. For further information and booking please e-mail us
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The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.
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Peak Korzhenevskaya satellite information
Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak (elevation 7,105 m, prominence 1,650 m) in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five "Snow Leopard Peaks" in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910.
Due to transliteration and declension issues the peak's name is rendered in many different ways, including Korzhenevski, Korzhenevskoi, and Korzhenievsky.
Peak Korzhenevskaya lies about 13 km (8 mi) north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest point of the Pamirs in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Akademiya Nauk Range, the north-south trending subrange which forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. While most of the Akademiya Nauk Range is in Tajikistan's Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAO), Peak Korzhenevskaya is located a little to the west of the GBAO line, in Jirgatol district (Region of Republican Subordination).
Peak Korzhenevskaya is one of the five 7,000 m peaks of the former Soviet Union (this counts Khan Tengri, which is more often given as 6,995 m) that were required for a climber to be awarded the Snow Leopard award, the highest honor given to Soviet mountaineers. It is usually said to be the second easiest of these peaks to climb, after Lenin Peak. However it is not a easy mountain; its rise above local terrain rivals that of Ismoil Somoni Peak, since it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River.
In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m).
Korzhenevskaya was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge.
Partly since it is required for the Snow Leopard award, Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after Lenin Peak. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1986; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.
Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ismoil_Somoni_Peak
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Korzhenevskaya
Muztagh Ata 7546 m Expedition 2013
Muztagh Ata 7546 m Expedition 2013Guaranteed departure date expedition "Muztagh Ata peak 2013" with experienced tour leader! Program: Bishkek - Bishkek (you may join in Kashgar) Duration: 25 days Location: Xinjiang, China, Asia Price: Route: Bishkek – Naryn – Torugart pass (Chinese border) – Kashgar – Subashi – Base camp of Muztagh Ata peak – climbing – Kashgar – Torugart pass – Naryn - Bishkek
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Day 1. |
Arrival in Bishkek. Rest in the hotel. In afternoon transfer to Naryn. Accommodation in Guest House or Yurt camp. |
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Day 2. |
Drive to the Torugart Pass, crossing Kyrgyzstan-China border; meeting your guide from China. Transfer tp Kashgar, 3 hours; hotel accommodation. |
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Day 3. |
Kashgar/Subashi (BUS 200kms 4-5 hours), we will drive along the Karakorum Highway winding for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez River. Then you ascend to an altitude of 3,900 meters by the shores of KARAKURI LAKE, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pasturage. Then we drive 10 km to Subashi. |
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Day 4. |
Trekking to Base camp In the morning we drive 10 km to Subashi and meet our camels and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the team's equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to the base camp, approximately a 4-hour walk. Camping. |
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Day 5-21. |
Climbing Activity. |
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Day 21. |
Base Camp/Subash/Kashgar(Trekking+Bus). In the morning we will go down to Subashi, again our gear will be taken by camels. At Subashi our transport to Kashgar will be waiting and we will arrive there in early evening. Hotel accommodation. |
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Day 22. |
Kashgar. City tour at Kashgar, last day of the expedition. Our tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar, the famous Id Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uyghur styled homes. We visit the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters. |
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Day 23. |
Kashgar/Torugart Pass (BUS) After breakfast, drive to the Torugart Pass; crossing the China-Kyrgyzstan border. Transfer to Naryn, guest house or yurt accommodation. |
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Day 24. |
Transfer Naryn - Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. |
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Day 25. |
Transport to airport, flight home. |
The price includes:
- Permit Fee;
- Complete cost of Liaison Officer
- Entrance, Govt. taxes & insurance of local staff
- Salary, food & equipment of local staff during expedition
- Transportation: Bishkek - Naryn - Torugart - Kashgar - Subashi and back;
- Hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Kashgar based on sharing twin room with full board (breakfast, lunch & dinner) according to the program. In Naryn accommodation will be provided in a guest house or Yurt camp.
- Full board during trekking & at the Base Camp
- Porters and Camels from Subashi to Base camp & return to Subashi.
- Guide services to assist the expedition but not a high altitude guide
- Complete kitchen equipment incl. kitchen tent, mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set and etc.
- Sleeping tents in base camp (one tent shared by two people)
- Official visa invitation if required
The price does not include:
- Visa
- All changes during the program (extra transfers, extra days in towns or base camp)
- Equipment over the Base camp (high altitude tents, high altitude food)
- Porters over the Base camp
- Single supplement is 145 U$ per person
- Excursions, which are not listed
- Extra meals and alcoholic drinks
- Extra days in Bishkek or Kashgar, which are not included in the program are 35 Euro per person for day in TWN room and 60 Euro for day in SGL room (accommodation and full board)
- Personal guide for ascending is 2950 U$
- Personal equipment (sleeping bags, shoes, snowshoes, and etc)
Please note: In case if tourists have decided to finish their expedition earlier, they don’t get back payment for unused days in Base Camp. They will have to pay additionally for transfer from Base camp to Bishkek, accommodation and meal in the cities.
Please note: The program will take place only in case if group is completed of 10 people, if there is not enough participants, organizers have a right to cancel the expedition or shift to the other dates.
Necessary documents:
- International passport (valid for more than 6 months till end of expedition)
- “Alpine” medical insurance
- Visas (in case of visa support, please request in our agency)
Terms of accommodation:
In Bishkek – “Asia Mountains” hotel or similar, twin-bedded room accommodation.
In Naryn – guest house, rooms for 2-3 persons or yurt camp(1 yurt for 2-4 persons).
In Kashgar – 3* hotel, twin rooms.
In Subashi village – yurts (1yurt for 8 persons).
In Base camp – twin tents.
Medicine:
It is an obligation to have a climbing insurance in case of any accident.
Tour leader will have a first aid kit, but you are strongly recommended to bring your own personal aid kit. One month before expedition starts, we recommend you to start taking vitamins.
Recommended equipment:
- High-altitude tent
- Cooking set
- Crampons (ex.Grivel G12)
- Back pack (40-50 lt)
- Harness – better Petzl or Black Diamond with wide lower straps
- Safety system
- Carabiner with clutch – 3-4 pieces
- Jumar
- Telescopic trekking sticks
- Thermos for hot tea
- Release device –“eight” type
- Ice axe
- Snowshoes or skis for ski tour
- Helmet lamp
- Camera
- Video camera and accessories
- Storage battery
List of recommended clothes:
- Trekking shoes
- Plastic mountaineering boots
- Downy jacket and pants (better snow suit)
- Gore-Tex jacket with big hood
- Gore-Tex pants
- Wind block jacket
- Wind block pants
- Polartex jacket-100 – 2
- Thermo underwear – 2 kits
- Personal underwear
- Polartex gloves – 2 pairs
- Mittens – 2 pairs
- Warm woolen socks – 4-5 pieces
- Balaclava
- Warm hat
- Face wind block mask
- UV glasses
- Ski glasses (preferable)
- Gaiters
Muztagh Ata Kalaksong, Koskulak peak 6849 from the west (photo by Mashenin, August 2005)
Muztagh Ata 7546m
Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata (Turkic 'ice-mountain-father'), is the second highest (7546 meters) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamir. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.
Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir", and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.
The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.
The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.
Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005.
The youngest person to climb Mustagh Ata is Marius Bergsmark Bjertness. He is from Norway and was at the summit 19th of July 2005 at an age of 15 years, 10 months and 14 days (born 6th of September 1989).
Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muztagh_Ata
http://www.turclubmai.ru/heading/papers/1147/
http://www.turclubmai.ru/heading/papers/1147/0_f06_1.jpg
